Showing posts with label Audio. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Audio. Show all posts

Wednesday, 17 February 2016

"Hi-Res" recordings... part 3 (the Vinyl revenge...)

Okay... so now it's time for the turn of the vinyl.  For a while my LynxTWO has been out of action (the input stage has failed multiple times over the past ~14 years, quite annoying on such an expensive card... it will eventually get fixed again one day when I can be bothered...), so I had to press the E-Mu 1820M into action instead.  The noise floor is slightly lower than the Lynx, but the distortion is slightly higher.  Still plenty good enough to be compared to the other sources, as it uses good quality AK5394A A/Ds.  I will be using my old John Linsley Hood shunt-feedback phono stage, powered off the original power supply.

For a while now I've been using a Lyra instead of the Shure V15VxMR with JICO SAS stylus... while the V15+SAS is a superb combination, as is often the way with audio, when you hear something slightly better, it's hard to go back.  The Lyra has a very wide frequency response as in common with most high performance Moving Coil cartridges... the distortion is also very low, I have measured it to be lower than the Shure, which is somewhat more unusual for a MC.

I recorded each track, and then resized as best I could, matching the RMS power to make it a representative test.

First up is the 4Beards reissue, 4M101...


You can immediately see that there is a lot more transient energy above 22K (as in, it actually has some) than with the HDTracks download.  The mix and sonic tone is very similar to the HDTracks... next I took out my early copy of the Atlantic LP, SD8139.  It isn't in perfect condition, but it's very hard to find a mint one these days... the cut is almost identical in loudness to the 4Beards reissue, but the band compression seems to be slightly different.  Big difference in frequency range...


Okay... that's a lot more going on at the top!  Mix isn't quite as spacious, but there's a bit more bite to it... I guess that's due to the extended top end.

Comparing all of them in the 10K-40K range across the whole track...


But it becomes most obvious when you zoom into a small space in the music....


... just how much information the so-called "Hi-Res" version of the music is lacking.

So all I can really say is, buyer beware... my own recommendation is that unless you can be certain of the provenance of the high resolution material, you are better off finding a good pressing of the vinyl.  If we consider the 4Beards reissue for a moment, for me it sounds better than the "Hi-Res" from HDtracks and is actually about the same price to buy.  And you get a real "thing", which you can keep or sell at your leisure.

So why bother with the download?  Good question.  Convenience might be a reason, but bear in mind that you can get a CD of this album which you can rip in a few minutes, and by all accounts will not be inferior to the 24/192 version - at the time of writing this, there's a copy for 3.46GBP on eBay.

I'm getting my hands on an early version of the CD and will compare it to the 24/192 HDTracks in due course, but I think we're done with the surprises for now... :)

Monday, 15 February 2016

"Hi-Res" recordings... part 2

So I headed over to www.hdtracks.co.uk for the first time in what was a very long time... so long in fact that my account had been quietly closed!  Would have been nice if they'd mentioned that.  In any case, the reason I had stopped visiting is due to licensing restrictions... I couldn't buy anything I wanted to buy as it wasn't available in the UK.

Nice to see it has been sorted out, the vast majority are now available.  So I purchased a handful of albums, at considerable cost... most of the albums in 24/192 seem to be priced around 18GBP - for a well known classic, you could probably pick up a second hand CD in the region of 4-5GBP, so this is quite a premium for the privilege of downloading a few files.  The 96kHz downloads are slightly cheaper, but I wanted the 192kHz for downsampling tests with FinalCD.

I listened to the albums I knew well, and I have to say that I was somewhat underwhelmed.  I have encountered this with "Hi-Res" recordings before, as I said in Part 1... there are a couple of reasons why this may be, but they weren't awful by any means.

In particular, I listened to Aretha Franklin's "Never Loved A Man The Way I Love You" in 24/192... it sounded, well... pretty poor.  Maybe not a great recording.  The 4 Beards vinyl version I have was not quite as rough.  So I went and had a look at the FFT for track 1...


Not a lot happening above 22K or so there... what about an average across the whole file?  You wouldn't expect it to be perfectly flat as that implies random noise which will cancel out...


Hm.  Nothing.  At all, just noise with a few idle tones.  I had a look through the whole file and there's nothing up there other than noise and a stray tone, centred on 76.8kHz, presumably from the A/D converter.  Here's the spectral, focusing on the 10K-30K band...


Hm.  Not looking good.

There's no question in my mind that this has been A/D'd at 24/192, the noise floor is too strange to explain otherwise.  What is rather open to question is what was the source feeding the A/D converter.  For an analogue converter to brickwall like that would highly, highly unusual.  I checked all the other 24/192 recordings I bought, and there was nothing like this... for example... Joni Mitchell's All I Want...


... looks natural and genuine.  Of course it is possible to "fake" a Hi-Res recording but the Aretha Franklin looks to me like it could have been taken from a CD source... and if so, a slightly ropey D/A at that, one with a very high noise floor, given the low pass filter visible in the noise floor.  That might would suggest a 1-bit converter from the mid 90s... or it might just be a very noise reel to reel tape, who knows.

I contacted HDTracks to complain, and their response was disappointing at best.  They pointed out that they do not record or master the tracks, no-one else had complained about the album, and that if I had a problem, to take it up with the record company.

I pointed out their page about Quality commitment, which drew silence.  It seems they are very happy to take your money and then point the finger at someone else when a customer questions the quality being offered.  I find it hard to accept that the Aretha album can be called "Hi-Res"... either the master source simply has no content above 22kHz (which I suppose could be possible) or the source for this "high-res" master is actually a 16-bit 44.1kHz or 48kHz digital copy which has been played through a poor quality D/A and captured in 24/192 to pass HDTracks' "quality tests".

Even a cursory examination of the spectral analysis should have flagged this up (which HDtracks claim to do in their Quality commitment page), so it is clear that HDtracks do not vet their files very carefully, despite what they claim.

To try and get to the bottom of this, I'm obtaining some early vinyl of this classic album to see whether there really isn't a version out there with content above 22kHz... it will be interesting to find out!  I also have an early Japanese CD version of the album coming to compare the general sound quality with.

Something to bear in mind - when you pay for downloaded music, you have nothing to "sell on"... if you are not happy, you may be lucky and get a refund.  If not, you would appear to have little recourse.  It seems to be known that the "quality tests" at HDTracks have varied results - I doubt they are unique in this as they do not generate the material, only sell it, but some baseline of quality was to be expected from a company coming from Chesky...

I do hope these companies start to take quality a little more seriously, as it rather undermines Hi-Res downloads as a whole and will eventually unravel their massive margin when people realise they a) can't be sure if they are getting something better than CD quality and b) they are left with a rubbish bunch of 1s and 0s and a hole in their bank balance...

Frankly, rather than spending 18 quid on a download, get a decent physical pressing of these albums on Vinyl, where possible.  It may cost slightly more, but you will have something which you can enjoy, something you can touch, and in a lot of cases something which will actually retain value.  Your downloads are worth $0 once you have paid for them... !


Saturday, 6 February 2016

"Hi-Res" recordings... part 1

I had been hoping to get the wedding blog post series done by now, but as usual life/work gets in the way... time for an audio intermission... !

Some of the viewers of this blog may be aware that when not at my full-time job, I spend rather a lot of time working on audio... way back in, crikey... must be 2001, I was commissioned to develop the software for the Zero One Ti48.  This was one heck of a way to do my first commercial product, and is where I really cut my teeth on doing practical, high quality audio DSP, after my dalliance with digital crossovers back at university.

In some ways the Ti48 was way ahead of its time.  It allowed you to rip CDs to an internal hard drive back before the concept of a music server had materialised in general use.  While it may have been based on a PC architecture, and it was criticised in some quarters because of that, it was to misunderstand the work that had gone into the concept and how the quality was far beyond what a typical "PC player" could achieve and could offer truly "high-end" sound quality, through a combination of the right hardware and software.

One thing that was particularly unusual about the Ti48 as an audio transport was its ability to play up to 192kHz material.  The only problem was that back in 2002, there wasn't any 192kHz material to play!  Audio A/D converters capable of doing 192K back then were rare, and probably custom designed, or re-purposed from another intended use.

96kHz capability had been around for much longer, probably hitting the mainstream back in 1993 with the Pioneer D-05... I do remember when this came out, and it seemed very exciting to be able to cover well beyond the hearing range to allow for improved digital processing and avoid the hairiness in the top octave - the reviewer marvelled at how much more natural the tape hiss sounded...  It took a lot longer to make it to other recording equipment, though...

While it was very cheap to make an existing 48kHz delta sigma A/D do 96kHz - you just do less decimation at the end... this wasn't really optimal for performance as you ended up with a lot of shaping noise where your new octave was meant to be.  It really required a redesign of the modulators and in some cases faster bit clocks to achieve a "true" 96kHz performance, but the potential was there.

This came in very useful for the advent of DVD... you may ask why?  Because DVD was the first "HiRes" digital format in wide public consumption... the story goes that the chaps at Pioneer managed to sneak in 24-bit 96kHz support to the official DVD specification... given their previous form with early 96kHz products, this makes a lot of sense - they felt it was beneficial, and having the main delivery format for films supporting it would put a huge number of players out there.  Very wise. 

Players were not forced to play 96kHz directly as I recall (they were allowed to downsample to 48K) but all must be able to play a 24/96 disc.

I got my first DVD drive in perhaps 1998 or so from Creative... it was bundled with a big Dxr2 MPEG2 decoder card, as most PCs of the time were too weak to be able to decode smoothly by their own.  Standalone DVD players were still fairly expensive at this time, so adding one to a PC was a reasonable solution for DVD watching.

At the time, I wasn't aware of the 24/96 capability - I was mostly buying it to watch films in a quality never encountered before at home... but some people were looking into what was possible...

One in particular was David Chesky... Chesky Records (along with Classic Records too) put out some of the earliest 24/96 DVD-Vs... these basically consisted of a static video frame which was then followed with pure 24/96 audio... DVD couldn't guarantee the bandwidth to offer more than 24/96 stereo in PCM, but this was a massive step up technically from what was available in the past.

Playing one of these discs on a computer used to be a proper pain in the backside.  What I ended up doing was extracting the raw data from the VOB files and then running a bit rearranger as the samples were packed into a strange order - this was worked out through trial and error on my part!  Then I had a normal 24/96 WAV file... while I had been able to record 24/96 since 1999, this was my first opportunity to see what a professionally recorded hi res recording looked like... indeed, on the FFT there was life above 22K after all!

While most large diaphragm microphones struggle to remain flat, there is still plenty of energy going up there particularly for impulsive/percussive sounds, and while we may not be able hear these through our ears very well (bone conduction is another matter), humans are remarkable at hearing inter-channel differences... so it seems worthy to try moving up to a higher sampling rate from a delivery point of view.

What's the catch?  Well, you need a lot more storage, and you make the jitter problem worse.  Combined with the requirement to optimise a converters' characteristics for the higher rate, this means a converter may well sound better at a lower sampling rate.  An interesting test of this is to downsample high resolution audio... I developed a program called FinalCD to do just that.  It is a clunky, old-school command line program but is fairly well regarded in terms of its sound quality.

Certainly, I designed the sharp filter to capture as much as possible of the original 96kHz signal into the 44.1kHz sampling rate limitation of Compact Disc.  While it would be possible to go more precise still, it is really pushing close to the limit of what can be crammed on there and is technically close to perfect.  Many years ago, perhaps around 2004, I used FinalCD to compare a 24/96 recording to a 44.1 downconversion of the same material.  In the same player, the 44.1 sounded better... in a different player with completely different transport/DAC architecture?  Same result.  The 44.1 just sounded more musical.

This didn't make any sense at the time, but as mentioned above, this is not hugely surprising when everything is taken into account... running a D/A at a lower sampling rate increases the tolerance to jitter for reproducing the waveform correctly.  You are trading the ability to time the signal transitions correctly effectively against the settling time or amplitude precision of the D/A... this is precisely why delta-sigma converters suffer so much from jitter, as they need to run much faster to make up for their lack of raw resolution, often only composed of 31 or so elements... less than 5 bits.

In any case, time moves on.  Since developing the Discrete DAC many years ago and combining it with custom digital filters and dither running on my Ti48 equivalent, I've been fairly content with the quality of my CD playback, with no big steps for improvement... the limitation seemed to mainly fall on the source.  Now I am an advocate of the potential of 16/44.1 and feel that it has been hard done by for many years with some truly terrible recordings and masterings (perhaps done under duress in the latter case), but there was always the nagging feeling that a bit more bandwidth could help if done right...

Aside from the work done on Sunrise, improving my analogue replay massively over the past year has perhaps shown better where CD would ideally be than any high-res recording had done so to date... so it was time to do some more investigation into the possible reasons.  To do this, I'd need some more  "Hi-Res" material... ideally material I was familiar with and already had on multiple formats - it might help to shed some light...

Sunday, 11 August 2013

Class A contenders numbers 2 and 3...

As it is now heading towards the winter months again, my thoughts go back to Class A amplification.  While the JLH is a very nice amplifier, I haven't felt it is the ultimate solution, at least not for the whole of my odd speaker.

The JLH simplicity makes it a slightly quirky affair... too much deviation from the original design and it gets upset, which is a shame as a chunk more feedback would make it fit much better in my system in terms of gain and also lower the distortion helpfully.

I also thought it worth to revisit the JLH to see what was possible with higher voltages and bias points... at this point, I'm just interested in the 1 watt into 8 ohms performance... here's the results I got from the experiments...

                    2H   3H   4H   5H
24V 560mA = 13.4W  -59  -73  -89  -102
27V 667mA = 18.1W  -61  -76  -95  -109
24V 835mA = 20.1W  -67  -79  -104 -113
30V 774mA = 23.2W  -63  -79  -99  -114
33V 922mA = 30.4W  -65  -82  -104 -118
35V 973mA = 34.1W  -66  -83  -105 -118 

So substantial gains from higher voltages but also a lot more waste.

I have been looking at other simple designs too.  A kind audio fellow in France sent me some original boards for the Hiraga 8W design.  I've had my own boards based on this design sitting around for, ooh, probably a year now, including one based on PTFE (christened the "Slippy Amp" as ink would just slide off it) but never quite got around to finishing them.  All that needed to be re-added was some 1 ohm power resistors, after I'd carelessly not mounted one of the power transistors very well.



The schematic can be found on the link above.  It is a very simple amplifier with a lovely symmetry to the stages.  It runs at fairly low voltage, but with very high bias... around 1.7A.  You can run it off big lead acid batteries, if not for that long.

I haven't actually sat and listened to the Hiragas as yet simply because the measurements suggested a big difference in characteristics between the two boards, which is likely to lead to a flawed evaluation.

                 2H   3H   4H   5H   6H   7H
Hiraga Board 1  -42  -81  -76  -74  -83 -101
Hiraga Board 2  -45  -52  -86  -69  -81  -79


I'm not entirely sure why that is, whether it is careless abuse on my part or whether some of the parts are damaged, but in any case it will be interesting to compare to my own boards when complete.  The basic distortion performance appears to be considerably worse than the even simpler JLH design for the same power consumption.


To throw something very different into the mix, I had decided to build a new amplifier for the bass drivers... rather than going for a Class D, I'd decided to try a Class AB which had the potential to run in Class A for a few watts.  The design in question is the LME49830 reference design, originally from National Semiconductor, before being absorbed by TI.

The LM49830 is essentially a near-complete MOSFET driving solution for an amplifier design, containing all the front end and driving circuitry required for building an amplifier.  It is very low distortion and results in a fairly simple PCB.  Rather than go to the trouble of designing my own from scratch, I decided to use the reference design.


The boards are 3.2mm FR4, with 4 oz traces.  Not cheap, but if you are building something to handle power and want something that will not flex, this makes a lot of sense.  I decided to stay close to the original specifications of the parts - a lot of the parts are exactly as listed on the BOM.  A few minor changes are the use of silver mica instead of polypropylene for the signal filtering, non-inductive wirewound power resistors, and slightly bigger local decoupling caps for the LME49830.

The power devices used in the design are the Toshiba 2SK1530 and 2SJ201, PDFs on Bob Cordell's website.  These are beefy complementary MOSFETs with a lower than usual turn-on voltage - they should not be confused with lateral MOSFETs which have a very different structure.

When finally built up, they look something like this...


A parallel pair of N FETs and P FETs are used for high power handling and low output impedance.  The pairs of FETs were as tightly matched as were possible from the ones I had.

As supplied, it appeared that the LME49830 reference design can be biased from approximately 200mA to 550mA.  For normal use, that is plenty but for lower voltage operation I was interested in seeing what benefits there were from going that little bit further.  Adding a resistor in parallel let me increase the maximum point to see what was possible.  I decided that going beyond 700mA would probably be pointless so ended up setting that as the maximum.  Here are the distortion results so far, again for 1W into 8 ohms, with +/- 23.5V rails...

             2H   3H   4H   5H   6H   7H   8H   9H
201mA bias   -98 -100 -111 -107 -124 -119 -124 -127
541mA bias  -105 -107 -125 -118 -125 -124 -126 -127
700mA bias  -115 -116 -133 -126 -133 -132 n/a  -135

The distortion as can be seen is incredibly low.  For the 700mA bias result, I suspect the D/A and A/D are actually the limiting factor in the results rather than the amplifier itself.

Listening to the amplifier is an unusual experience.  I'm not sure what to make of it so far... it reminds me slightly of the ExtremeA amplifier, but will need a bit more time to make my mind up...

Sunday, 28 July 2013

Getting on with some vinyl...

Well, I've been a bit remiss in keeping the blog up to date, but I was spending quite a lot of time over the past few months on getting a Sunrise prototype ready.  When I came back from the meet, it reminded me that my own turntable was in need of a bit of work in order to be able to listen to vinyl and actually test Sunrise locally.

Our house isn't particularly large, so it is hard to find room for all the audio equipment, particularly the multiple amplifiers while having room for the television which sits on a separate stand... so I'd been putting it off.  But no longer...

The "bit of work" is a new tonearm for the Teres.  I'd bought a T3Pro tonearm to replace the old Origin Live'd RB250 arm that I'd used for so long.  It's a parallel tracking tonearm as opposed to the more usual tangential tracking arm that you usually find on turntables, mainly because inner groove distortion is something I find particularly unpleasant.

There is quite a lot of setup involved, I guess that is the case for any tonearm, but there a few more adjustments than usual to be made.  I've set it up first with a fairly inexpensive cartridge, the Nagaoka MP-100, in case any mistakes were made in the process - thankfully the cartridge seems to have come through unscathed!

Here's how it looks so far...


And a closer up of the wand...


While I have sound and what appears to be reliable tracking, there still seems to be a fair way to go with optimisation.  Sound is a bit sibilant and very much reminiscent of what I consider in my relatively limited experience to be a typical "moving magnet" cartridge sound.  It may well be user error, but we'll see...

Here's a good thing... the actual arm itself is essentially silent - this is different from any other air bearing arm I've encountered, which normally have a very audible hissing sound.  The air pump itself is designed for aquarium use, and while far from silent should not be too hard to quiet down in an appropriate foam-lined box.

So lots of work still to do on the turntable, more tweaking and alignment, more solid mountings for various things, but at least it can play now!

Monday, 14 May 2012

JLH gets regulated (temporarily)...

Over the weekend, I tried to get modify some of the high efficiency DC/DC converter boards to output 26V for the JLH, by replacing most of the passive components with different values suggested by TI's design software, but not a great deal of joy was had - while they will happily do 26V into no load, the under voltage lockout/ramping doesn't appear to be right as they only output around 3.3V when connected up to the amp... ah well.

So why not try plugging into the linear bench supply?  If memory serves (I built it a few years ago), this is LT1084 based, so capable of decent grunt with the die cast aluminium case acting as a heatsink.  The outputs have been configured for a voltage of around 33V.

First results are promising with an 8 ohm load - modulation is now down to almost nothing, and the noise floor is much flatter... but there's a lot of high order harmonics present that weren't seen before in the unregulated supply.  Let's try reintroducing that hand-wound 2mH 0.03 ohm choke between the supply and the JLH... hey presto, much cleaner!

(Note: signals are still being normalised to 0dBFS)

It's important to remember that most linear regulator ICs are not good at suppressing higher frequency noise... that said, it is surprising just how big an effect the choke is having.  The performance is now very impressive indeed for a simple circuit, and fully satisfies a basic objective criteria for a "clean watt".

Let's go further and try it with a 15 ohm load again, this time comparing to the measurement reference DAC being used as a source in these tests.  The DAC is based around an old WM8740 evaluation board whose heart has been replaced by an AK4396 in the name of better objective measurements... here's what it looks like inside...


All the mains circuitry in the picture is purely for charging - when in use, the design is disconnected from the mains and the DAC runs fully off battery power, with digital input coming via. optical for electrical isolation - this eliminates the possibility of annoying ground loops at the input end.

The measurement reference DAC is driven with a 24-bit 96kHz test signal, captured by a modified LynxTWO-B board with AK5394 A/D conversion... this is as high as the board will take in its current form via. S/PDIF, and appears to give good results... while it is certainly possible to achieve lower distortion than this (the simplest means being high order filtering around the test tones), the results are plenty good enough for a basic check point.


Putting to one side the second and third order harmonic, the JLH closely mirrors the distortion and noise of the input signal... in fact, if anything, you could say that the JLH appears to have "cleaned" the signal up a bit - this suggests that the output of the DAC probably would benefit from a little bit more filtering.

This is pretty good performance and suggests I should build up some linear regulators as soon as possible for the JLH so I can go back and listen to them again!  While a discrete regulator would be interesting to play with, I've ordered some LT1083 to do an initial first run with, as the design seems to work so well with even a traditional series regulator.

Friday, 11 May 2012

Class A contender no.1 - JLH 1969

When it comes to audio, in my opinion, quite often simple is good, sometimes best.  It's very easy to overcomplicate designs and introduce additional problems, only having to add additional parts to ameliorate basic flaws.

A perfect amplifier, as someone once said, is a piece of straight wire with gain.  While there are plenty of line level ICs such as opamps capable of vanishingly small levels of measurable distortion, achieving the same with much higher levels of current and voltage is much more taxing.

As has been said, running in Class A gives a head start in terms of low distortion, as it avoids the problem of crossover distortion in Class B amplifiers, where the amplifier switches fully from sourcing to sinking current, or vice versa.  To lessen the problem, Class B amplifiers are often offset biased to become a Class AB, so that the amplifier operates effectively in Class A for a fraction of its rated power.  This is very effective at reducing crossover distortion, but as Class AB amplifiers tend to be designed for much higher powers (and therefore, typically run on higher rail voltages), the bias amount tends to be fairly small to keep consumption down.

For the sake of a single clean audio watt, I believe that (with mains power at least!) Class A is probably the best way of achieving the goal... as an added benefit, Class A circuitry tends to be simpler which means from my perspective, less componentry to sully the sound.  An excellent reference on the subject of Class A amplifiers is the Class A amplifier site, run by Geoff Moss.  The site focuses on variations of an amplifier developed by John Linsley Hood, or JLH as he is often referred to.

JLH came up with quite a brilliant little Class A design which was the subject of a Wireless World article back in 1969, and is still a reference today.  It uses just four transistors, one input level PNP, a mid powered NPN for phase splitting and two beefy NPN power transistors for the output.  As was common for the time, this is a single rail non-complementary design which means you can really go to town on just one rail of power supply and not worry about how complementary your output pair really is.


One of the reasons why the design needs so few active parts and can run single rail is due to the simplistic biasing and that both the input and output are AC coupled (so coupling capacitors in the signal path).  Some audio enthusiasts run a mile at the thought of capacitors in the signal path, but I am not one of them.  Providing the cap is of high quality, I'll happily take one over a far less linear active device which will leave a much bigger sonic imprint (to my ears, anyway).  They also provide a degree of safety over that inevitable time when then the bias "wanders" and there is an unpleasant amount of DC going where it is not desired...

I won't go into the circuit operation in detail as far wiser heads than me have debated it in great detail over the years, but it can be read as a simple three stage amplifier.  While I've grown to have a fondness for FETs over the past few years, the sound of a JLH amplifier has always stuck with me, so thought it was an excellent bipolar-based design to start with.

As someone who's designed a few bits of audio kit in their time (and still do, when time permits!), it feels a little lazy to use someone elses' PCB, but you have to value your time when it comes to these things... there is often little point in reinventing the wheel, particularly when going after a fairly faithful recreation.

I decided to start with the first iteration of the JLH design, as this is the simplest (and you could argue, purest) form of a bipolar Class A that you could wish for.  I found a seller on eBay that does what appeared to be authentic looking 1969-design PCBs with the added bonus of supporting more modern component pinouts if you wanted to try different parts.

On the whole, I was keen to stick close to the original transistors, with the exception of the output transistors... by all accounts, the OnSemi MJE15003 are considerably superior to the originals in this design and so could be used without hesitation.  TO-3 packages are a pain to mount compared to the more modern TO-247/TO-3P as they usually need an angle bracket when using with a PCB... this is then thermally coupled to the primary heatsink.


For extra security against misalignment, I put PTFE sleeving around the TO-3 pins... this ensures even if the TO-3 packages somehow wiggle their way to making contact with the metal, no shorting should occur.  Fancy alumina ceramic shims (about 1.5mm thick or so) were used to thermally couple but electrically isolate the TO-3s from the heatsink, with liberal use of good quality thermal paste in the sandwich. This naturally gives a bit more lead inductance but reduces stray capacitance.

I chose to keep the original 2N3906 PNP (using a Magnatec part which should be very close as a second source to the original Motorola version) for the input transistor, though for the NPN splitter, I ended up going with a 2N1711 branded part with lovely-looking gold plated leads - the 2N1711 was endorsed by JLH as a superior replacement so feels authentic enough.  All transistors were tightly Hfe matched, across both pairs and channels.  I would have preferred higher Hfe parts but out of 16 power transistors, the "best" were around 50ish, with a lot of them much lower.

There didn't seem much point to throw exotica at this first attempt, so you won't see any teflon capacitors or tantalum resistors here - the input cap is a salvaged WIMA Polypropylene from an amplifier refresh, and the output capacitors are effectively "no name" Forever-branded units of basic merit.  The decoupling capacitors are good quality Rubycons, bought in for the job


 I socketed R5 in the picture so that I could tune the output to be half the rail voltage as JLH recommends, but the fixed 100K was so close to half rail already that I took the trimmer pot out and put the 100K back in.

For the sake of getting things up and running quickly, I wanted to skip the regulated supply and try one of the many simple unregulated supplies floating around here of many voltages - unfortunately never quite the *right* voltages, it seems!  Commandeering a set of 2x25V 160VA toroids from Antrim, back when Maplin used to sell more interesting componentry, I put the secondaries in parallel, rigged up a simple full wave rectifier and threw a big Elna Cerafine on the output.  Hm... a bit high... off-load DC voltage was something like 45V!

This design is meant to run off 27V for 8 ohm loads... more could certainly be tolerated by the parts in question, but that it going to get properly toasty at that, never mind being worried about the health of the some of the parts from a voltage point of view.  A bit of thought, and I remembered that there were a couple of 100VA toroid cores spare which I'd intended to wind chokes with... a spool of 30A wire and a patient Anna resulted in two simple chokes of approximately 2mH each, and very low DCR.  These were put in series with the rectifier, and kept well away from the mains toroid in use.


As the angle brackets were rather oversized for the job, it was thought that it would function as a basic heatsink for now - after all, it should be only 30W or so per channel.

Both amplifiers were gingerly powered up, and gladly showed signs of sane biasing the first time around, rail being between approximately 32 and 35V.  The bias starts off fairly low and stabilises at a considerably higher point, being similar for both channels... the bias appears to be very sensitive indeed to temperature - just grabbing the heatsink with your hand is enough to affect the bias to a significant degree, which does sound like an element of the design that will benefit from slightly more complexity!

Ok... enough of this faffing about, let's get them into the main system and see how they sound.  First night impressions were very positive indeed... while I wouldn't call the resulting sound "airy", it certainly came across as more beguiling and of fine definition.  I've experimented with many amplifiers over the years but have usually come back to my humble Arcam Alpha 8Ps... a quite traditional (and relatively complex) Class AB amplifier with a complementary MOSFET output stage - the JLH was certainly bringing something new, though quite hard to define.

Let's see what some measurements show.  For sake of brevity, I'm just going to show some normalised 24/96 65536-point FFTs of a 1kHz input... load is a 25W wirewound power resistor of either 8.2 or 15 ohms.  This lets you see the harmonic spectrum, and give a great deal more information that any single THD figure will.  While these traditional measurements only give, IMO, a small insight into the sound quality of a device, the order and shape of the harmonics can be quite revealing.  There have been alternative tests proposed for quite some years, but this a reasonable starting point.

Let's start with a 15 ohm load first.  This was done at considerably less than a watt as the MF+HF units will rarely get anywhere near a full watt... if they do for any length of time, I'll probably have my fingers in my ears, and perhaps the neighbours might want a word...

The first thing that is immediately obvious is that the JLH output is being modulated, probably from mains harmonics... at a relatively low level, but nevertheless impacting on the sound.  This is likely to be a combination of the very primitive unregulated supply and the primitive biasing arrangement.

The second thing that struck me is how much (relatively speaking) high order harmonic distortion the Arcam has.  While this amplifier will no doubt measure very well in terms of a THD figure, the harmonics of this single test tone are spread across the whole frequency range.  Second order harmonic distortion in my experience is fairly benign and is generally overwhelmed by the speaker contribution, so isn't worth worrying about unless of a very high quantity... third order is a bit more concerning, and I'll generally like to see it below -80dB on the reproduction front, and fifth and above odd harmonics preferably below the noise floor.

A high noise floor is evident on the Arcam, possibly down in part due to the high gain that this amplifier offers, considerably higher than that of the JLH - I suspect when the JLH is given a better power supply and better biasing, the noise floor will drop further to go with the lower modulation.

Let's have a look at an 8.2 ohm load now, at close to a watt - this is considerably harder than I'm putting on the amplifier at the moment due to a resistive attenuator network for gain matching, but is interesting for comparison purposes.

Note that with the more difficult (albeit still only mostly resistive) load, the modulation on the JLH output has dropped considerably.  The JLH second harmonic is quite high (which would lend a rather poor THD score, for what that's worth - not very much) and slightly higher on third harmonic, but aside from a few odd glitches, higher harmonics are pretty much absent.  Odd order harmonics on the Arcam are visible all the way up the 15th, and this isn't even with extra averaging.

So the Arcam isn't very good objectively at low power levels... consistent, yes, but not particularly low in even basic distortion tests.  The JLH is already sounding good, although these results do suggest that the modulation will be impacting on the sound - hard to know if this is being perceived positively or negatively at the moment.

In any case, there is more work to do on the JLH... whether I will attempt to modify the existing boards or start afresh, I'm not sure, but it's certainly worth some more listening hours!  :)

Wednesday, 9 May 2012

The perfect watt...

And so we move neatly to the subject of amplification.  The amplifier in a system is generally dictated by the speakers, as different speakers have different requirements.

Broadly speaking, the majority of modern commercial speakers are in the region of 86-90dB/W/m, which is what I'd class as "mid efficiency" units.  These can be driven to modest levels by almost any amplifier, but ideally 20 watts or more, depending on how wild the impedance curve is.

Heading into the realm of drive units designed for high SPLs (a typical example would be for PA use) are units in region of 95-100dB/W/m... I class these as "high efficiency" drive units, which typically have very powerful magnet systems and lighter diaphragms.  There is a penalty (other than the typically high price) in that the lighter cones often lack the critical damping of lower efficiency units, which can lead to considerable colouration in the sound... however, the gains can be worth it.

Once you are beyond 100dB/W/m, you are in "super high efficiency" territory.  While even a 100dB drive unit may only be technically a few percent efficient in terms of converting electrical power into sound, these units are vastly more efficient than a conventional unit due to the log scaling.  The use of horns in particular can allow (given enough space!) very high SPLs from only a handful of watts.  If you are prepared to spend serious money, then 110dB/w is feasible!  At this point, an amplifier is practically unnecessary - a liability, even.

Back in the real world, we have limited resources, and without the space for large horns (or wanting to deal with their own set of issues), "high" efficiency is a reasonable goal.

My own speakers are essentially divided into two.  A bass driver operating essentially in free air, which is very inefficient, and a midrange and HF unit of relatively high efficiency.  While the bass driver requires a powerful amp, ideally of at least 100-200W in power handling, the midrange and HF unit are never likely to see more than a watt in typical use.

You can further lower the workload on the MF+HF amplifier by taking advantage of the fact that there tends to be more musical energy at the low frequencies than the high.  By moving the high pass filter from the speaker crossover to before the amplifier input, you can reduce the load by 3dB or more, depending on the music.  Do note that this is fine for a midrange like the TD15M Apollo which has insane (>500W) power handling as even if the amplifier goes DC, the speaker won't care, but it's a really bad idea to DC couple any kind of high frequency driver without suitable protection in place.  Be warned that it can be an expensive lesson...

The high power demands of the bass driver realistically limit choices to a Class AB or a Class D solid state amplifier, which aren't very interesting from a purist point of view, and this drive unit is only covering a few hundred Hz with fairly quick rolloff, so let's not concern ourselves with that for now.  What is interesting is the watt for the MF+HF, which covers roughly 250Hz onwards... the bulk of the sonic spectrum.

So we want a good watt... how to get it?  The immediate answer is Class A operation... whether it be a single output device or a push pull pair, "always on" operation yields the lowest distortion, but unfortunately also the lowest efficiency.  For a single clean watt, we can sacrifice efficiency and still keep power consumption within manageable limits.

(Do note that I've seen a Class D amplifier that idles at over 20 watts, so it can be dangerous to make assumptions purely based on topology!)

There are some very well known Class A designs that put out a few nice watts, and I've been endeavouring to build them up to try with the speakers... time to build, listen and measure... in that order.  :)

Tuesday, 8 May 2012

Speaking plainly...

Audio is difficult.  This is the conclusion I've managed to come to after a decade or so of practising in the art.  Many systems are good at one or two things, but to cover all the bases is incredibly hard.  Being pragmatic is to decide what particular aspects are most important to you, and to focus on achieving those primarily.

Take my speakers, for example.  I'm certainly not a speaker designer by trade, but I know what's most important to me... low distortion and an even tonality with no undue emphasis, particularly in the upper midrange.  I also hate cabinet colouration, which led me to come up with a speaker with no cabinet, or baffle for that matter.  Throwing away these things greatly hurts efficiency and creates potential nulls in bass response, but that is the price that needs to be paid for a small, relatively light footprint which doesn't suffer from the usual smearing of sound as the cabinet resonates.

Losing efficiency in one area of the design like this requires high efficiency, high power handling units to compensate for the shortfall.  I've long since used Lambda Acoustics TD15M Apollo for mid/bass duty (a big 15" unit with stupendous power handling and a curvilinear cone for wide frequency response) but the thought occurred to me that it could be used for a pure midrange.  With the Raal ribbons on top, that is potentially a 95dB/W midrange upwards block, which could be driven by its own small amplifier.  No baffle step compensation should be necessary here, as that can be incorporated into the bass driver crossover, which will have to be driven relatively hard to achieve any bass.



I had been mulling over the idea of a baffle-less speaker for a while, but this created a problem... how to support the drive units?  A bit of a discussion was had with a talented carpenter called Russell who's turned some of my (rather poorly drawn) ideas into reality before, and eventually settled on the idea of a V shape as a support.  This had a potentially interesting property of dividing the rear wave energy, which may help ameliorate nulling problems to a degree.  He builds out of thick birch plywood, which is an excellent material acoustically - a light year away from the typical MDF used in most speakers.


The magnets of the drive units neatly slot into the supporting holes.  The idea was to bolt the drive units together, but in an attempt to reduce transferral of energy through the front baskets, oil-based clay was used to cement the units into the mounting holes - this proved sturdy enough to support the drivers, with some sorbothane spacers keeping things at the right height.

I haven't said much about the 15" bass drivers so far, which are high Q units similar in design to the TD15Ms... I had a bit of a trial with them, discovering that one unit had a cracked basket long after I'd purchased them - the speaker company in question was not particularly helpful in the matter, but thankfully I was able to epoxy the basket to what appears to be adequate strength, and distortion performance appears unaffected.

As said, the nature of the design means that the bass drivers need to be heavily equalised in order to produce any reasonable bass.  In the case of these drivers, a low pass filter was pretty much all that was needed to bring things into line, after attenuating the midrange+HF suitably.

The attenuation of midrange+HF to get a decent bass response worked out to approximately 12dB, which really isn't too bad, although does mean the effective efficiency of the bass driver has been reduced to roughly 78dB/W!  With roughly 200W power handling, that is enough to play reasonably loud, but it won't blow the house down... that was not on the requirements list.  :)

The crossover is relatively simple... second order on the bass driver, first (high pass only) on the midrange, and the tweeter is effectively fourth order, if memory serves.  Response looks something like this, about 15-20 degrees off axis...


It's a fairly even response with mainly dips rather than peaks, and a gentle roll off at the top end unless you're sitting bang on axis... the limited vertical dispersion of the ribbon is a bit of a price to pay for the excellent sound quality it provides, though this could be ameliorated with an "ambience tweeter"... something I've been meaning to try for over a year now but haven't got around to!

Once the crossover was gotten into a reasonable shape, I stopped messing with them and just started to listen to music... which is how it should be, really!  They have their limitations (primarily the small sweet spot), but perform well with a wide range of musical genres.

The big gap in efficiency between bass and midrange+HF suggests biamping would be an excellent idea - perhaps a high efficiency Class D driving the bass, and a high quality small Class A driving the midrange+HF.  Now there's a thought...